Surfing the Net
Surfing and the internet are often used in the same sentence - but they really don't have too much in common. I'm not sure which geek coined the phrase, but sitting hunched up over your desktop...Read more
It starts with a gong
It starts with a gong! Then it cuts to a set of lines, stacked, about to break. Cut to a Buddhist running his hand over a series of prayer wheels, spinning them. Cut to a surfer running his hand...Read more
Eunuchs at the Casbar
The bouncer is way past reason, his arms, the size of Lance Armstrong's thighs, distend abnormally from his huge neck and shoulders. All that muscle packed tightly around a wee, shaven head and...Read more
Dust and Stones
You can't skateboard in the townships. There are no smooth surfaces, no tar, asphalt or concrete, just dust and stones connecting the hand-made, corrugated iron, wood and cardboard houses.

When...Read more

Cracking Pipe
It’s that weird moment of dusk when the daylight is fading and the world spazzes out for a couple of minutes. Stuck between the night and the day, time moves fast and slow all at once. Pipeline...Read more
Bored Sports
Surfing... ay bru, I got all the gear. I got a brand new quiver with seven boards in it. I got fin systems, double concaves, pintails, swallows, rounded-pins, nose guards, a rashvest and a speedo....Read more
What it all means
What have we learnt from seven years of surfing big waves in Africa? Trial by frustration? Waves come when they want to. Is the Red Bull BWA a close up, day by day, hour by hour study of the fickle...Read more
The Gollum of Long Beach
Harry, is this simean-featured goofball who hangs around the surfbreaks where I ply my trade and ride my craft. Today I find him waiting with some of his filthy, trustafarian mates on a bench in...Read more
It happens often around here, you’ll be sitting in the line-up, watching for the sets, your mind on the next line and out of nowhere the water breaks next to you and this big black shape...Read more
Malagash Handshake
The wave is like a crystal blue freight train. A fast reeling piece of surf magazine perfection, pulling tight and rushing along a barely submerged coral reef. A warping liquid window rollercoaster...Read more
The Mayor of Vic Bay
The wave breaks and the dude who has just paddled out is all over it. He looks like a chunky Sean Holmes, with short hair. And he's ripping it up like a body builder and a telephone directory. Now,...Read more
Some ous have it easier than me. Some are not carrying an extra 5 kilos on their gut. Some are not going bald. Some work normal 9 - 5 day jobs where they know what's expected of them and when they...Read more

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